Instead I use some 6mm beech dowel, which I sand down to the required diameters using my hand drill and a sanding block. Maple would be ideal, but I’ve noticed that some suppliers are running low on stock these days. The screw extraction has left me with one 5mm hole and two 4mm holes in the back of the headstock, so I need some doweling. It’s fortunate that all evidence of this mishap will end up hidden under the tuners, but the holes have to be plugged because the tuners need fixing screws.
The first screw has been removed and is wedged inside the extractor Finishing up Doing is often the best way to learn, and by the time I get to the third screw, the process has become a lot smoother. I’d strongly suggest sourcing steel tubing, but if you’re forced to use a softer metal, you’ll find it easier if the teeth aren’t filed too deep. Tapping a drill bit through from the other end of the tube clears out the screw and wood debris.Ī 4mm hole is drilled through some clear acrylic and clamped over the screw hole to guide the screw extractor The screw is wedged inside the tube as I lift it out. The first screw eventually comes out, but extracting the brass tube is tricky because the steel screw causes the cutting teeth to flare outwards. From this I can calculate the maximum depth that I’m able to drill and place masking tape on the tube to ensure I don’t cut through the front of the headstock. Before starting, I measure the thickness of the headstock and the acrylic. The teeth will cut in both directions and the last thing I want is to force the screw deeper inside. Screws go in clockwise and come out anticlockwise, so it makes sense to run the drill in reverse. A triangular file is used to create cutting teeth at one end but the inside and outside edges still need to be de-burred Reversing the damage
#DEEP BROKEN SCREW EXTRACTOR TRIAL#
After a successful trial run on a scrap piece of wood, I’m ready to tackle the headstock. Having clear acrylic makes it easy to align the guide over the centre of the damaged screw hole, and it should be clamped in position. An effective method with this sort of tool is to drill a hole through a piece of clear acrylic that’s exactly the same diameter as the tubing.
50mm will be sawn off the end Slip sliding awayĮven regular drill bits can slide about before a hole gets started, so I need a way to guide the screw extractor. This brass tube is 4mm wide with an internal diameter of 3mm. And then it cuts into a piece of solid oak with surprising ease. The screw extractor slides around before the teeth grab. After a quick de-burr, I’m ready to see if it will cut into wood. Altering the file’s angle, I repeat this process twice more to end up with six cutting teeth. To make the teeth, I place a triangular file across the centre line at one end and create two V shaped cuts. I begin by cutting off a 40mm length and cleaning off any burr with a flat needle file. Working with brass rather than steel makes that process a lot easier. I’m going to be filing cutting teeth onto the end to turn a short length of tubing into a mini hole-cutting saw. Both of these screws have snapped inside the holes Cutting teethīrass is a soft metal, so I’m not expecting this tool to last a lifetime. The screws are about 2.5mm at their widest point so I’m using a length of brass tube with an internal diameter of 3mm and an external diameter of 4mm. For this project I’ll be extracting three snapped screws from a Telecaster-style headstock. Having checked my local engineering supplies shop and a metal merchants, I end up finding exactly what I need in B&Q. If you want to keep this as small as possible, make sure that the walls of the tube aren’t too thick. The diameter of the hole left in the wood after the screw has been extracted will be equal to the outer diameter of the metal tube. When choosing a metal tube, you must ensure that the inside diameter is large enough to fit over the snapped screw. This snapped screw is standing proud of the surface and there is some chipping adjacent to the hole On the tube
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